If you don't seem to have the same amount of hot water available as you had before, you may have a bad heating element in the water heater. Over time, the heating elements can become coated with calcium carbonate from the water and its efficiency may reduce. It is a far cheaper repair to replace the element than to buy a new water heater. The removal and installation of a new element is a simple job.
Instructions
1.Turn off the power to the water heater. Make sure that everyone knows that you are working on the water heater and they should not turn the breaker on the electrical panel box back on.
2.Remove the access panel at the top of the water heater using the screwdriver to expose the heating element. There are two elements on the heater, one in the top and one in the bottom. You should remove them both.
3.Test the resistance of both elements by setting the multimeter to read X1000 and attaching one lead to one of the screw terminals and the other to a heating wire mounting screw. If the reading is anything other than infinity, you should replace the element. Test the other element also to determine if it also needs to be replaced.
4.Attach the hose, close the water inlet valve and open the drain valve to drain the heater. This is necessary before removing the elements from the heater.
5.Unscrew the terminals from the element and unbolt the element from the heater. Chances are very high that the lower element has a much greater build up of calcium carbonate on the element than the upper element.
6.Make sure that the heater element that you purchase is the same configuration and model and is rated the same.
7.Replace the elements in the reverse order and make sure you secure the mounting bolts and terminal screws.
8.Make sure the drain valve is closed, then remove the hose. Reopen the water inlet valve and allow the heater to refill before turning on the electricity again.
9.Replace the access panels over the two elements and finally turn on the breaker to the hot water heater.
Showing posts with label wire. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wire. Show all posts
Wednesday, April 18, 2012
Tuesday, April 17, 2012
Struts Used in Gratings
Gratings are a little-appreciated part of every day life, from covering holes in the sidewalk to protecting valuable parts of your computer. Gratings are made out of a variety of materials, from steel to plastic, and consist of a series of struts enclosed by a frame. The type of strut used varies, depending on the use of the grating. Struts have a variety of features, including strength, flexibility and slip resistance.
Grip Strut
Grip struts are most often made out of stainless steel or expanded brass or aluminum. They require little maintenance, and are used in the industrial, construction and municipal engineering fields because of their durability, resistance to corrosion and ability to support heavy overhead loads. They can be used as wells and drain covers, and as safety grating, due to their slip-resistant nature. Grip struts can be purchased in both standard and heavy-duty form.
Steel Strut
Steel struts, also known as bearing bars, are normally in-built in standardized gratings. Based on your need, you can select your strut thickness and the distance between the struts. The minimum strut thickness is 22 millimeters but 30, 40 and 50 millimeter struts are also available. The strut gap distance is important; if your grating will be used for drains on a sidewalk, the spacing must be such a child's foot will not fit through it. Steel struts and gratings are used for drain covers, plug grill plates, pool covers and staircase boards.
Wire Strut
Wire struts are typically made out 1.5- to 6-millimeter strips of perforated metal. The struts are positioned very close together in a crisscross fashion, and then welded or wound together to form a mesh. This can be in a square, diamond or cross stitch fashion. As the wire is flexible and breaks easily, mesh gratings are small, and, unlike steel and grip struts, are not used in areas where there is human footfall. Instead they are used to cover open areas of machinery, such as the fan ventilation system of computers.
Grip Strut
Grip struts are most often made out of stainless steel or expanded brass or aluminum. They require little maintenance, and are used in the industrial, construction and municipal engineering fields because of their durability, resistance to corrosion and ability to support heavy overhead loads. They can be used as wells and drain covers, and as safety grating, due to their slip-resistant nature. Grip struts can be purchased in both standard and heavy-duty form.
Steel Strut
Steel struts, also known as bearing bars, are normally in-built in standardized gratings. Based on your need, you can select your strut thickness and the distance between the struts. The minimum strut thickness is 22 millimeters but 30, 40 and 50 millimeter struts are also available. The strut gap distance is important; if your grating will be used for drains on a sidewalk, the spacing must be such a child's foot will not fit through it. Steel struts and gratings are used for drain covers, plug grill plates, pool covers and staircase boards.
Wire Strut
Wire struts are typically made out 1.5- to 6-millimeter strips of perforated metal. The struts are positioned very close together in a crisscross fashion, and then welded or wound together to form a mesh. This can be in a square, diamond or cross stitch fashion. As the wire is flexible and breaks easily, mesh gratings are small, and, unlike steel and grip struts, are not used in areas where there is human footfall. Instead they are used to cover open areas of machinery, such as the fan ventilation system of computers.
How to Stretch Wire Mesh Fence
Wire mesh fences are a simple, cheap way to fence off areas. Unfortunately, wire mesh fence is often seen as a temporary solution, as it tends to stretch and flex, which can make the fence snag. Learn to stretch your wire mesh properly in order to make the fence a more useful and long-lasting.
Instructions
1.Space your fence posts no more than 8 feet apart. Dig post holes every 6 to 8 feet down your boundary line. Pour concrete in the holes and insert the fence posts. Use a level to make sure the fence posts stand straight.
2.Cut two two-by-fours to the height of the sintered wire mesh to act as stretchers.
3.Drill round-head bolts every 8 inches along the length of the wire stretchers. Do not tighten them all the way down.
4.Wrap the end links of the laminated mesh around the bolts on the wire stretchers. Screw the bolts in tightly around the mesh. Make sure to wrap enough wire mesh around the boards so it is secured tightly.
5.Affix one of the wire stretchers to a fence post. Use at least 4-inch carpentry screws to attach the bottom, top and center of the wire stretcher to the outside of the fence post. If you pull the wire mesh out, it should run perpendicular to the wire stretcher and fence post.
6.Tie a hand-cranked chain pulley tautly to the next fence post. Affix the chain hook to the center of the non-attached wire stretcher. Crank the fence into the next post. Crank slowly, allowing the wire time to stretch without snapping as it becomes more and more taut.
7.Lock the pulley's crank teeth into place. Screw down the other wire stretcher onto the post. Unlock and detach the hand crank.
Instructions
1.Space your fence posts no more than 8 feet apart. Dig post holes every 6 to 8 feet down your boundary line. Pour concrete in the holes and insert the fence posts. Use a level to make sure the fence posts stand straight.
2.Cut two two-by-fours to the height of the sintered wire mesh to act as stretchers.
3.Drill round-head bolts every 8 inches along the length of the wire stretchers. Do not tighten them all the way down.
4.Wrap the end links of the laminated mesh around the bolts on the wire stretchers. Screw the bolts in tightly around the mesh. Make sure to wrap enough wire mesh around the boards so it is secured tightly.
5.Affix one of the wire stretchers to a fence post. Use at least 4-inch carpentry screws to attach the bottom, top and center of the wire stretcher to the outside of the fence post. If you pull the wire mesh out, it should run perpendicular to the wire stretcher and fence post.
6.Tie a hand-cranked chain pulley tautly to the next fence post. Affix the chain hook to the center of the non-attached wire stretcher. Crank the fence into the next post. Crank slowly, allowing the wire time to stretch without snapping as it becomes more and more taut.
7.Lock the pulley's crank teeth into place. Screw down the other wire stretcher onto the post. Unlock and detach the hand crank.
Monday, April 16, 2012
How to Replace a Dryer Heating Element
If your dryer does not heat but everything else is working, this problem can be solved easily. It is usually the heating element that is not working. Most Heating Wire are very easy to change out. Remember, safety first! Unplug the dryer.
Instructions
1.Most front load dryers have heating elements that are in the very back of the dryer. Move the dryer to a large open area where you can do the work. Lay the dryer down on the front side on the floor.
2.With a screwdriver or a nut driver unscrew the back panel of the dryer which usually has ten to twelve screws. Gently remove the cover and set aside. The heating element should be a small square panel located about a foot above the bottom of the dryer. This square panel is a 3 1/3 inch by 31/2 inch square. With coils inside that look like small springs.
3.This box should have two screws holding it in place. There should also be two heating wire, or electrical connectors attached to this box. Remove each one and label them where they were taken from. Inspect the box after removing by looking inside to see if any of the inside springs are loose or broken. If they are you need to replace the heating element.
4.You can purchase a replacement heating element at your local appliance dealer. Be sure to take the serial number and the make of the dryer with you. The replacement part should cost between $50-$65.
5.Place the new heating element on the dryer being careful not to drop it. Reconnect the two wires exactly as they were before you removed the old heating element. You should have marked them in step three. Secure the screws to make certain the heating element does not move.
6.Replace the back cover panel and tighten screws. Place the dryer upright and back into position against the wall. Plug in the dryer and turn it on. You should have heat. If you have heat...Well done! Let the dryer run for a few minutes to break in the new heating element.
Instructions
1.Most front load dryers have heating elements that are in the very back of the dryer. Move the dryer to a large open area where you can do the work. Lay the dryer down on the front side on the floor.
2.With a screwdriver or a nut driver unscrew the back panel of the dryer which usually has ten to twelve screws. Gently remove the cover and set aside. The heating element should be a small square panel located about a foot above the bottom of the dryer. This square panel is a 3 1/3 inch by 31/2 inch square. With coils inside that look like small springs.
3.This box should have two screws holding it in place. There should also be two heating wire, or electrical connectors attached to this box. Remove each one and label them where they were taken from. Inspect the box after removing by looking inside to see if any of the inside springs are loose or broken. If they are you need to replace the heating element.
4.You can purchase a replacement heating element at your local appliance dealer. Be sure to take the serial number and the make of the dryer with you. The replacement part should cost between $50-$65.
5.Place the new heating element on the dryer being careful not to drop it. Reconnect the two wires exactly as they were before you removed the old heating element. You should have marked them in step three. Secure the screws to make certain the heating element does not move.
6.Replace the back cover panel and tighten screws. Place the dryer upright and back into position against the wall. Plug in the dryer and turn it on. You should have heat. If you have heat...Well done! Let the dryer run for a few minutes to break in the new heating element.
DIY Perforated Metal Wall Panels
A DIY perforated metal wall panel adds just the right amount of eye appeal when you need to screen part of a room or spice up a lackluster wall. You can use a simple punch tool if you have time to spare, or use a plasma torch if you want faster results. Stick to the strictest definition of perforation -- a hole -- and use punched-tin techniques, or stencil an elaborate group of shapes that you cut with a torch.
Instructions
Punched-tin box Panels
1.Sketch several original designs on butcher paper until you like the results. Center the design on the panel and secure it at all four corners with painter's tape.
2.Place the punch tool on the design, at a point as close to the center as possible. Give the punch a light tap with a ball-peen hammer, hard enough to mark the sheet steel without punching through it.
3.Move the punch to the next point on the design and repeat, until you have tapped all the points needed to create the design. Remove the tape and the butcher paper.
4.Place the punch on the closest point to the center of the design. Give the punch a firm-enough tap to drive it all the way through the steel sheet.
5.Slide each punched panel into a ready-made steel frame. Secure the expanded medal to the wall, using your choice of fasteners.
Welded Panels
6.Use a soapstone marker to sketch your chosen design on 18- to 20-gauge sheet steel panels.
7.Don wrap-around welder's glasses with a minimum number 5 shade, a face shield, ear protection, a NOSH-approved respirator, welding gloves and full leathers.
8.Pull the trigger to ignite the plasma torch. Hold the torch head above the steel and follow the lines of your chosen design.
9.Turn the panel over and run a right angle grinder with an 80-grit mop disk over the entire panel to remove any slag.
10.Slide the perforated metal panel into a ready-made steel frame.
Instructions
Punched-tin box Panels
1.Sketch several original designs on butcher paper until you like the results. Center the design on the panel and secure it at all four corners with painter's tape.
2.Place the punch tool on the design, at a point as close to the center as possible. Give the punch a light tap with a ball-peen hammer, hard enough to mark the sheet steel without punching through it.
3.Move the punch to the next point on the design and repeat, until you have tapped all the points needed to create the design. Remove the tape and the butcher paper.
4.Place the punch on the closest point to the center of the design. Give the punch a firm-enough tap to drive it all the way through the steel sheet.
5.Slide each punched panel into a ready-made steel frame. Secure the expanded medal to the wall, using your choice of fasteners.
Welded Panels
6.Use a soapstone marker to sketch your chosen design on 18- to 20-gauge sheet steel panels.
7.Don wrap-around welder's glasses with a minimum number 5 shade, a face shield, ear protection, a NOSH-approved respirator, welding gloves and full leathers.
8.Pull the trigger to ignite the plasma torch. Hold the torch head above the steel and follow the lines of your chosen design.
9.Turn the panel over and run a right angle grinder with an 80-grit mop disk over the entire panel to remove any slag.
10.Slide the perforated metal panel into a ready-made steel frame.
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