Bobcat manufactured their 610 mini skid steer loader between the years of 1972 and 1982. Loaders are engine-powered machines that feature buckets. They are employed to scoop up and load materials onto trucks or move material from one location to another.
1.Operating Capacity
According to For Construction Pros, a machine's operating capacity is the maximum weight of a load the machine should be employed to lift. Bobcat's 610 loader offers a 1,000 lb. operating capacity. Lifting a load larger than this operating capacity puts the machine at risk of failing or tipping.
2.Engine
The Bobcat 610 loader's engine is a four-cylinder, diesel engine with a 107.7 cubic inch displacement, according to Noah's Stuff. This loader offers 30 horsepower and can travel at a speed of 6.6 miles per hour.
3.Specifications
This loader has an operating weight of 3,810 lbs. It is 107 inches long, 54 inches wide and 82 inches tall, according to the manufacturer. The hydraulic pump offers a pressure of 1,700psi and can move hydraulic fluids at 11 gallons per minute.
Tradett Faq includes all types question from the word.No matter what question you ask.you can find the best answer from our Tradett Faq.
Wednesday, March 7, 2012
How to Live Frugal by Making Your Own Homemade Cleaning Wipes
Grocery prices are high but the cost of cleaning wipes
is even higher. You can reduce the food bill by growing your own fruits and
vegetables at home, but you can also reduce the amount of money you spend on
cleaning supplies by making your own homemade cleaning wipes. Whether you need
a disinfectant wipe or window wipes, it is a simple process to put together an
entire container of wipes for your home or car.
1
Set the plastic lid on a small piece of wood and cut an "X" in
the center with a utility knife. The legs of the "X" should be about
1/2 inch long on each side. Use scissors to cut some of the plastic away so the
"X" is an actual opening through which the homemade wipes can come
out of the container.
2
Cut the roll of paper towels in half so there are two shorter rolls of
paper towels. Place one roll in an upright position into the plastic container.
For cloth wipes, lay the cloth pieces in a single line with the ends
overlapping. Start at one end and roll the cloth pieces into a cylinder, like
the paper towels, and place them upright in the plastic container.
3
Pour the cleaning solution of your choice over the paper towels. You can
use store-bought cleaning solutions or make your own. For instance, to make disinfectant wet wipes for the skin, use a solution of 2 cups water, 2 tbsp. of baby shampoo and
1 cup of rubbing alcohol.
4
Close the lid of the container and allow the towels to sit overnight to
absorb the cleaning solution. Test the towels to determine of there is enough
cleaning solution in the towels. If the entire roll is not damp, add another
cup of solution and allow the towels to stand until all the liquid is absorbed.
5
Open the lid and remove the center paper cone of the paper towels. Grab
the center towel, or the one in the middle of the roll, and feed it slowly
through the slit in the top of the lid. Close the lid and gently pull the towel
through to use.
How to Assemble Tapered Roller Bearings
A
tapered roller bearing is a conical tapered ring. It can be made of carbon
chromium steel or other types of steel. Tapered roller bearings are commonly
used in car wheel bearings, as the conical, tapered design of the bearing
allows it to handle vertical and horizontal forces. Installing a taper roller
bearing requires knowledge of the wheel mechanisms in vehicles and motorcycles.
A worn tapered roller bearing can affect the rotation of the wheel after time
and must be replaced.
1
Dab the roller bearing in grease. Make sure the grease is
applied inside and outside the bearing diameter.
2
Insert the tapered bearing on the drive hub shaft on top
of the outer race bearing, which is an untapered metal ring that goes
underneath the roller bearing. The auto bearing is the circular assembly that is
located in the middle of the wheel. It houses the tapered bearing and outer
race bearing.
3
Balance the hub drive shaft on a set of parallel support
blocks. Use a hydraulic press frame to firmly install the tapered roller
bearing into the hub drive shaft seat. Do this by pressing on the hydraulic
press frame.
4
Place a bearing spacer inside the tapered bearing to
ensure the bearing is installed properly. Use a socket wrench to further
tighten the bearing. The socket wrench will seal the bearing in place. Apply a
non-metallic seal to the bearing to meld the bearing in place. Apply the seal
in the drive hub with the sealing lip facing downwards. Tap the seal with a
plastic hammer until it is firmly in the seat.
How to Build With Expanded Metal and Tubing
Possibly
one of the most unglamorous inventions of the 19th century, expanded-metal
sheet is still popular with designers worldwide. Invented in Britain and patented in the United States
in 1894, expanded metal is a strong but relatively lightweight sheet material
and forms part of many everyday structures. Typically used to clad a perforated metal, expanded-aluminum and expanded-steel mesh feature in applications
that include structural engineering, architecture and ship-building.
1
Study the fabrication plan for the item you intend to build and find the
cutting list. If there is no cutting list, create one by writing down the
description and dimensions of each part shown on the plan. Identify parts made
from tube and parts made from expanded-metal sheet.
2
Find the first tube part on the cutting list and select a length of metal
tubing of the required type. Mark out the length of the part on the tubing. For
example, if the cutting list calls for a 12-inch length of 1/2-inch-square
steel tube with 1/8-inch wall thickness, find a length of that size tube and
measure 12 inches from one end. Scribe a line across the tubing, using a
combination square to make sure it is at right angles to the edge.
3
Cut the tube across the line with a miter saw. Check the plans for details
of any miters on the ends of the part. Mark them on the part, ensuring you mark
the miter angle correctly. Adjust the miter saw to the specified angle and cut
the ends of the tube across the miter lines.
4
Mark out and cut each tube part in the same way. Remove any burrs or sharp
edges from the ends of all the parts using a coarse file.
5
Check the assembly sequence shown in the plan. Clamp together the first
two tube parts. Wear appropriate protective equipment for welding, including a
welding mask and gloves. Tack-weld the two parts together and unclamp them.
6
Clamp the next part to the first two and tack it in position. Continue
according to the plan until you have tacked together the complete tubing frame.
Check it for dimensional accuracy, then weld all the joints in full. Clean all
the welds with a wire brush to remove all welding debris.
7
Find the first expanded-metal part on the cutting list and select a sheet
of the required type. Mark out the dimensions of the part on the sheet using a
permanent marker. For example, if the cutting list calls for a
12-inch-by-18-inch piece of 1/4-inch #20 mesh, take a sheet of that type of
expanded metal and mark each section across the mesh at 12 inches from one end.
Then mark each section along the mesh at 18 inches from one side.
8
Use an angle grinder with a cutoff blade to cut along the marks on the
mesh. Wear appropriate protective equipment including safety glasses, ear
defenders and gloves. Cut until you reach the intersection point of the two
sets of markings.
9
Mark out and cut each expanded metal part in the same way. Remove any
burrs or sharp edges from all the parts using a coarse file.
10
Lay the first piece of mesh in position on the welded frame and clamp it
with welding clamps. Fix it into position according to the plan, either by
tack-welding it at 6-inch intervals along each edge or by using mesh clamps. If
you use mesh clamps, tighten them with a wrench. Remove the welding clamps once
the mesh is secure.
11
Attach each piece of mesh according to the plan until you have completed
the assembly. Clean all the welds with a wire brush to remove any welding
debris. Check the assembly for dimensional accuracy against the plan.
Tuesday, March 6, 2012
How to Install a Water Chlorination System
Chlorination of water is a standard method of insuring a
safe supply of water. Chlorine residuals in the water kill harmful bacteria
that may be present. Chlorine can also be used to reduce sulfur odor problems
with some types of water sources. A sodium hypochlorite (bleach) chlorination
system is common, and its parts include a contacting-head water meter which
sends signals to a chemical metering pump to proportionally inject the chemical
based on the water flow rate in the pipe. Injection does not occur unless there
is water flow. To obtain a low, but steady chlorine residual, a liquid system
is optimal. The range of acceptable free chlorine levels is 0.3 to 0.5 parts
per million, delivered at the most distal part of the water system.
1
Purchase a contacting-head water meter -- in-line or insertion style --
and a chemical metering pump that fits the size of the water main and its flow.
The type of water meter you need is determined by the size of the pipe. In-line
water meters are commonly available for water pipes that are from 3/4 to 2
inches in diameter. If your water supply pipe is larger, then you must purchase
an insertion meter that is installed on a saddle fitting, which is cemented and
fastened over a hole drilled in the pipe.
2
Turn off the water pump and shut off valves that are above and below the
point of installation of the in-line water meter. Drain the water out. Cut the
pipe where the water meter is to be installed. Clean the cut pipe of any PVC
pieces with a knife. Glue on the PVC fittings to the line that provide female
threads for connecting the male fittings of the water meter. Install the water
meter male threads on each side of the pipe and then connect the unions (which
come with the water meter) to the water meter body. If you are installing an
insertion meter, drill the appropriate size hole at the insertion site and
install a saddle fitting over it. If the saddle fitting has a hole which is too
large for the meter threads, then install reducer bushings as needed.
3
Screw in the insertion flow meter. You will also need to make a hole for
the chlorine injection downstream of the meter and install a saddle fitting. An
injection fitting usually has 1/2-inch male threads, so you need to have a
1/2-inch female fitting to receive it.
4
Mount the chemical metering pump in a location above the bucket used for
holding the sodium hypochlorite. Drill the mount holes and fasten the pump to
the mount. On the injection side, connect the injector fitting and screw in
into the site of injection on the pipe. On the suction side, install the foot
valve so it reaches the bottom of the chemical container.
5
Plunger pump and prime it with bleach solution. In order to prime this
type of pump, turn it on so it is at full capacity and speed and open the valve
for priming which is on top of the pump. If you do not have a priming valve,
you may have to grab the tubing and move it up and down to make the liquid move
up the tubing and get to the pump head. Disconnecting the tubing above the head
also helps priming. Once you see the liquid rising above the head in the tubing
above, the pump is primed and ready for injection in the water system.
6
Keep the pump running until the bleach solution reaches the injector
fitting; adjust the pump back to the setting for the calculated injection rate.
Then unplug it. Finally, install the water meter contact cable to the pump.
7
Check to make sure all fittings do not leak; then plug in the pump for
chlorine injection. Allow the system to pump for an hour or more while there is
water use at the most distal point. Test the free chlorine residuals at this
point to see if they are at 0.5 to 1 parts per million. Adjust the pump
settings and the bleach concentration levels to help achieve the appropriate
free chlorine residuals.
How to Choose a Box Spring Mattress
Shopping for a mattress according to your specifications can be a daunting task. There are so many brands, mattress types and sizes you must consider for restful sleeping. The same effort must go into choosing a box spring mattress. A proper box spring mattress helps support the mattress so it does not deform the frame. Box springs must also be well fitted to ensure the mattress is situated with stability and at a proper height that doesn't interfere with sleeping or cause back or neck discomfort from poor bedding alignment.
1
Evaluate your current box spring mattress. Determine whether to replace it with a new one if it doesn’t support your current mattress well.
2
Measure the mattress’ length and width so that the box spring fits correctly on its frame. Standard twin mattresses are generally 39 in. by 75 in., queen mattresses are 60 in. by 80 in. and king mattresses are 78 in. by 80 in. Find an appropriate box spring according to the mattress’ dimensions.
3
Test the box spring. Slide it in or rest it on top of the bed base. Make sure that your bed frame is sturdy enough to support the box spring’s weight--a snug fit is what you should be after so the box spring supports the mattress and keeps it from moving.
4
Consider investing in a special-made box spring if you have certain allergies. Because box springs are home to dust mites and bed bugs as well, select a box spring that comes equipped with an allergen-blocking cover. Invest in an extra support box spring if you have back problems.
5
Compare brands for a quality box spring. Box spring brands the same name as the mattress will most likely be the best fit. Inquire about the company’s warranty program in case the box spring needs to be replaced.
1
Evaluate your current box spring mattress. Determine whether to replace it with a new one if it doesn’t support your current mattress well.
2
Measure the mattress’ length and width so that the box spring fits correctly on its frame. Standard twin mattresses are generally 39 in. by 75 in., queen mattresses are 60 in. by 80 in. and king mattresses are 78 in. by 80 in. Find an appropriate box spring according to the mattress’ dimensions.
3
Test the box spring. Slide it in or rest it on top of the bed base. Make sure that your bed frame is sturdy enough to support the box spring’s weight--a snug fit is what you should be after so the box spring supports the mattress and keeps it from moving.
4
Consider investing in a special-made box spring if you have certain allergies. Because box springs are home to dust mites and bed bugs as well, select a box spring that comes equipped with an allergen-blocking cover. Invest in an extra support box spring if you have back problems.
5
Compare brands for a quality box spring. Box spring brands the same name as the mattress will most likely be the best fit. Inquire about the company’s warranty program in case the box spring needs to be replaced.
How to Repair a Plastic Nissan Radiator
Nissan's use of plastic radiators has grown over the last 20 years, displacing older, heavier ones made out of brass. The plastic versions are lighter, easier to repair, built to withstand heat and reinforced with glass fibers to increase their durability under pressure and high temperatures. Road debris, salt and other chemicals, however, can cause blockages, holes and cracks in the bimetal radiator. If the necessary repairs are not made, other problems can arise, affecting the vehicle's engine and radiator.
1
Start the vehicle so the coolant will flow from the radiator and through the engine and the rest of the cooling system. Look around under the hood for leaks in the radiator and attached hoses, as well as on the ground for green fluid. If the source of the leak is not easy to see, turn off the engine and clean the radiator's surface with a water hose or high pressured air to remove road debris that may be obscuring leaks. The actual method of repair will be determined by the type and location of the leak.
2
Disconnect the damaged radiator hose. Unhook the metal rings at each end of the hose. Pull the hose away from the connectors. Clean the connector openings. Place the new hose on the openings, securing it with the metal rings.
3
Take the radiator cap off the radiator when the engine and radiator accessories have cooled. Pour a bottle or can of radiator cooling system sealant into the radiator. Fill the rest of the room in the radiator with coolant or water. Coolant system sealant comes in powder and pellet form. Both versions work the same way --- flowing through the coolant and swelling to fill leaks. Start the vehicle and drive for at least a half hour to allow the sealant to move through the radiator and cooling system.
4
Stop the engine and allow it to cool. Drain the coolant from the radiator. Place the air-free plastic welder over the leak area, until it is heated all the way through. Place the air-free welder over the plastic welding rod to melt it into the leak until it begins to take on the color of the radiator. Allow the weld job to cool.
1
Start the vehicle so the coolant will flow from the radiator and through the engine and the rest of the cooling system. Look around under the hood for leaks in the radiator and attached hoses, as well as on the ground for green fluid. If the source of the leak is not easy to see, turn off the engine and clean the radiator's surface with a water hose or high pressured air to remove road debris that may be obscuring leaks. The actual method of repair will be determined by the type and location of the leak.
2
Disconnect the damaged radiator hose. Unhook the metal rings at each end of the hose. Pull the hose away from the connectors. Clean the connector openings. Place the new hose on the openings, securing it with the metal rings.
3
Take the radiator cap off the radiator when the engine and radiator accessories have cooled. Pour a bottle or can of radiator cooling system sealant into the radiator. Fill the rest of the room in the radiator with coolant or water. Coolant system sealant comes in powder and pellet form. Both versions work the same way --- flowing through the coolant and swelling to fill leaks. Start the vehicle and drive for at least a half hour to allow the sealant to move through the radiator and cooling system.
4
Stop the engine and allow it to cool. Drain the coolant from the radiator. Place the air-free plastic welder over the leak area, until it is heated all the way through. Place the air-free welder over the plastic welding rod to melt it into the leak until it begins to take on the color of the radiator. Allow the weld job to cool.
How Does an Adult Diaper Differ From a Baby Diaper?
Basic Adult Diapers
A typical adult diaper is manufactured in the same shape as a baby diaper. It's just made larger to fit an adult. The diapers are plain white without the cartoon figures that decorate baby diapers. The diapers come in sizes from small to extra large, according to adult weight. Baby diapers are sized from Newborn to Size 5, also by weight. There are different styles of adult diapers: unisex diapers, pull-up diapers and diapers designed for women.
Diapers for Women
Specialized adult diapers for women are rectangular in shape, resembling a very large sanitary napkin. These diapers have buttons at the top that attach the diaper to elastic strips over the hips, leaving women feeling less tied up in the over-coverage of a unisex diaper. This also cuts down on the rustling noise a diaper makes when moving.
Unisex and Pull On Diapers
A unisex adult diaper is white and has velcro strips on each side for attaching in front of the hip. These diapers most resemble a baby's diaper with little difference in form and function.
A typical adult diaper is manufactured in the same shape as a baby diaper. It's just made larger to fit an adult. The diapers are plain white without the cartoon figures that decorate baby diapers. The diapers come in sizes from small to extra large, according to adult weight. Baby diapers are sized from Newborn to Size 5, also by weight. There are different styles of adult diapers: unisex diapers, pull-up diapers and diapers designed for women.
Diapers for Women
Specialized adult diapers for women are rectangular in shape, resembling a very large sanitary napkin. These diapers have buttons at the top that attach the diaper to elastic strips over the hips, leaving women feeling less tied up in the over-coverage of a unisex diaper. This also cuts down on the rustling noise a diaper makes when moving.
Unisex and Pull On Diapers
A unisex adult diaper is white and has velcro strips on each side for attaching in front of the hip. These diapers most resemble a baby's diaper with little difference in form and function.
Types of LED Tube Lamps
Light emitting diodes, or LEDs, are widely used in a variety of devices, and LED lights are becoming a popular alternative to other lighting options. LED tube lamps are an alternative to florescent lighting, using 80% less energy with an average life span of 50,000 hours. LED tube lights are also safer than florescent bulbs, containing no lead or mercury. Before purchasing LED tubes lights, it is important to understand the different types.
T5
For any LED, fluorescent or incandescent LED bulb lights, "T" stands for tubular, describing the bulb. The number following the T is the diameter of the tube in eighths of an inch. At just under an inch in diameter, the T5 is the smallest of LED tube lights, but offers a variety of power consumption options, from four watts up to 15 watts. They can also vary in LED quantity, from 90pcs to 240pcs -- the higher the pcs count, the brighter the bulb.These LED bulbs are ideal for smaller fixtures, such as battery-operated lamps, and are available in several different lengths.
T8
T8 bulbs are commonly found in commercial buildings, such as offices and schools. These bulbs are smaller than a T10, and save more energy. Since these bulbs are larger than a T5, they require more wattage, ranging from eight watts up to 35 watts. These bulbs are ideal for moderately sized work or living areas with few light fixtures or larger commercial areas.
T10
Among the largest of LED tube lamps, the T10 bulb measures 1 1/2" in diameter. The T10 bulbs require about the same wattage as the T8 bulbs, ranging from eight watts to 35 watts. The quantity of LED remains the same for these bulbs as well, from 130 pcs up to 600 pcs. These bulbs may be appropriate for older light fixtures, which usually require larger bulbs. Both the T10 and the T8 are ideal for commercial areas with a need for bright lights. As with all LED tube bulbs, the T10 can be ordered in lengths from two to eight feet to accommodate any size fixture. By comparing your existing fluorescent bulbs to LED tube light options, you can easily determine which LED bulb will best suit your needs.
T5
For any LED, fluorescent or incandescent LED bulb lights, "T" stands for tubular, describing the bulb. The number following the T is the diameter of the tube in eighths of an inch. At just under an inch in diameter, the T5 is the smallest of LED tube lights, but offers a variety of power consumption options, from four watts up to 15 watts. They can also vary in LED quantity, from 90pcs to 240pcs -- the higher the pcs count, the brighter the bulb.These LED bulbs are ideal for smaller fixtures, such as battery-operated lamps, and are available in several different lengths.
T8
T8 bulbs are commonly found in commercial buildings, such as offices and schools. These bulbs are smaller than a T10, and save more energy. Since these bulbs are larger than a T5, they require more wattage, ranging from eight watts up to 35 watts. These bulbs are ideal for moderately sized work or living areas with few light fixtures or larger commercial areas.
T10
Among the largest of LED tube lamps, the T10 bulb measures 1 1/2" in diameter. The T10 bulbs require about the same wattage as the T8 bulbs, ranging from eight watts to 35 watts. The quantity of LED remains the same for these bulbs as well, from 130 pcs up to 600 pcs. These bulbs may be appropriate for older light fixtures, which usually require larger bulbs. Both the T10 and the T8 are ideal for commercial areas with a need for bright lights. As with all LED tube bulbs, the T10 can be ordered in lengths from two to eight feet to accommodate any size fixture. By comparing your existing fluorescent bulbs to LED tube light options, you can easily determine which LED bulb will best suit your needs.
PVC Insulated Electrical Wiring Hazards
PVC, or polyvinyl chloride, began to be used with electrical wiring in the 1930s to replace rubber insulation. While this type of insulation is considered to be safe for electrical wiring insulation, if the wire is used outside of the recommended specifications then dangers, such as electrical fire, can occur. To avoid PVC hazards, make sure you use PVC insulated wire in the right circumstances.
Temperature
The maximum working temperature of PVC is 70 degrees Celsius. At temperatures higher than 70 degrees Celsius the PVC starts to soften and become leeched away. This can result in open live PVC insulation wire, which can cause short circuits and electrical fires. Be aware that if the wire has a low level of electricity running through it but positioned next to a heating pipe, this can cause temperatures to rise too high and damage will ensue. When PVC is exposed to low temperatures, close to freezing, the PVC becomes brittle and the insulation can crack and expose the live wire. Ensure that all PVC insulated wires are stored and used at optimal temperatures.
Fire
For many years it was thought that PVC insulated wire was fireproof as the PVC would ignite briefly but then self extinguish. To some extent this is still true. However if the PVC insulated wire is found at a packing density of one kg PVC/m and a piece of wire should ignite or catch fire then there is enough PVC to remain lit. One such example where such high packing density of PVC insulated wire is found is in a cable tunnel.
Hydrogen Chloride Gas
Should PVC insulated wire catch fire, the burning of PVC releases hydrogen chloride gas. If large enough amounts of PVC catch fire and there is not proper ventilation, or any individuals trying to access the fire area do not wear proper breathing equipment, then hydrogen chloride gas can cause death.
Smoke
Before PVC actually ignites it produces a very dense, black smoke that will quickly block any light, resulting in a pitch-black environment. The loss of visibility makes, location, rescue and escape very difficult, and in fact the smoke is considered to be more dangerous than an electrical fire.
Temperature
The maximum working temperature of PVC is 70 degrees Celsius. At temperatures higher than 70 degrees Celsius the PVC starts to soften and become leeched away. This can result in open live PVC insulation wire, which can cause short circuits and electrical fires. Be aware that if the wire has a low level of electricity running through it but positioned next to a heating pipe, this can cause temperatures to rise too high and damage will ensue. When PVC is exposed to low temperatures, close to freezing, the PVC becomes brittle and the insulation can crack and expose the live wire. Ensure that all PVC insulated wires are stored and used at optimal temperatures.
Fire
For many years it was thought that PVC insulated wire was fireproof as the PVC would ignite briefly but then self extinguish. To some extent this is still true. However if the PVC insulated wire is found at a packing density of one kg PVC/m and a piece of wire should ignite or catch fire then there is enough PVC to remain lit. One such example where such high packing density of PVC insulated wire is found is in a cable tunnel.
Hydrogen Chloride Gas
Should PVC insulated wire catch fire, the burning of PVC releases hydrogen chloride gas. If large enough amounts of PVC catch fire and there is not proper ventilation, or any individuals trying to access the fire area do not wear proper breathing equipment, then hydrogen chloride gas can cause death.
Smoke
Before PVC actually ignites it produces a very dense, black smoke that will quickly block any light, resulting in a pitch-black environment. The loss of visibility makes, location, rescue and escape very difficult, and in fact the smoke is considered to be more dangerous than an electrical fire.
Solar & Wind Power Machines
renewable energy is derived from resources that are naturally replenished or extremely abundant. Two of the cleanest forms of alternative energy are solar and wind power, both of which harness and convert an external element into electrical power. As concerns of resource-depletion and environmental degradation become increasingly prevalent, these alternative forms of power are becoming more and more attractive. Furthermore, as investment increases and technology improves solar machine and wind power are beginning to look feasible as supplemental energy sources. There are various types of machines that harness solar or wind power.
Solar Cells
The basic unit of all machines designed to convert solar energy to electricity is the solar cell (or photovoltaic cell). Many solar cells grouped together make up a solar panel (a photovoltaic panel). Electrical power is generated through the photovoltaic effect. The photovoltaic effect is the creation of a voltage or a corresponding electric current in a material upon exposure to light. Simply put, the photovoltaic effect is when voltage is created in a material as it is exposed to light. Power is generated by solar cells and stored in a battery. The amount of electricity produced is dependent on the size of the solar cell network (these can be massive networks of solar panels linked together), the intensity of the light source and the angle at which the sunlight comes into contact with the cell.
Solar Machines
While solar cells are the basic building block of solar power, there are a multitude of machines that can be powered by it. Theoretically anything that runs on electricity could be powered by solar energy, but in reality the machine must carry a certain quantity of solar cells and be in contact with direct sunlight. The solar powered machines with the most media exposure are vehicles. Solar powered cars, which use photovoltaic cells to power either all or some of the vehicle's functions, are not available to most consumers, but are mostly built as engineering exercises or in the course of government-funded research. Solar powered boats, however, are commercially available. As solar cells and panels become smaller and more efficient it is speculated that the range of cost-effective solar powered vehicles and machines will increase in solar water heater production line.
Horizontal-Axis Wind Turbines
Horizontal-axis wind turbines (HAWTs) have the rotor and the generator at the top of a tower, facing directly into the wind. This is the most common form of wind power turbine and also the most immediately recognizable due to its windmill-like appearance. The rotor blades themselves essentially resemble a propeller. Large wind turbines generally have a wind sensor that works in tandem with a servo motor that keeps the blades facing directly into the wind. Wind farms are medium voltage power networks with multiple wind turbines working simultaneously. Power is then transferred to a base station where a transformer converts it to high voltage electricity.
Vertical-Axis Wind Turbines
Vertical-axis wind turbines (VAWTs) are a type of wind power machine that mounts its rotor shaft vertically with the pressure tank making machine of the machinery at the base. Rather than resembling a windmill, many VAWTs resemble helixes or double helixes (though there is wide variation between different models) and are therefore omnidirectional. The primary advantage of these over more traditional wind turbines is that they can be more densely packed together. Horizontal-axis wind turbines tend to reduce the velocity of wind as it passes through the blades and therefore designers must spread them out from each other, whereas VAWTs do not produce this effect. VAWTs tend to fare better in low-to-medium wind conditions. Similarly, as the main components are closer to the ground, VAWTs are easier to maintain.
Solar Cells
The basic unit of all machines designed to convert solar energy to electricity is the solar cell (or photovoltaic cell). Many solar cells grouped together make up a solar panel (a photovoltaic panel). Electrical power is generated through the photovoltaic effect. The photovoltaic effect is the creation of a voltage or a corresponding electric current in a material upon exposure to light. Simply put, the photovoltaic effect is when voltage is created in a material as it is exposed to light. Power is generated by solar cells and stored in a battery. The amount of electricity produced is dependent on the size of the solar cell network (these can be massive networks of solar panels linked together), the intensity of the light source and the angle at which the sunlight comes into contact with the cell.
Solar Machines
While solar cells are the basic building block of solar power, there are a multitude of machines that can be powered by it. Theoretically anything that runs on electricity could be powered by solar energy, but in reality the machine must carry a certain quantity of solar cells and be in contact with direct sunlight. The solar powered machines with the most media exposure are vehicles. Solar powered cars, which use photovoltaic cells to power either all or some of the vehicle's functions, are not available to most consumers, but are mostly built as engineering exercises or in the course of government-funded research. Solar powered boats, however, are commercially available. As solar cells and panels become smaller and more efficient it is speculated that the range of cost-effective solar powered vehicles and machines will increase in solar water heater production line.
Horizontal-Axis Wind Turbines
Horizontal-axis wind turbines (HAWTs) have the rotor and the generator at the top of a tower, facing directly into the wind. This is the most common form of wind power turbine and also the most immediately recognizable due to its windmill-like appearance. The rotor blades themselves essentially resemble a propeller. Large wind turbines generally have a wind sensor that works in tandem with a servo motor that keeps the blades facing directly into the wind. Wind farms are medium voltage power networks with multiple wind turbines working simultaneously. Power is then transferred to a base station where a transformer converts it to high voltage electricity.
Vertical-Axis Wind Turbines
Vertical-axis wind turbines (VAWTs) are a type of wind power machine that mounts its rotor shaft vertically with the pressure tank making machine of the machinery at the base. Rather than resembling a windmill, many VAWTs resemble helixes or double helixes (though there is wide variation between different models) and are therefore omnidirectional. The primary advantage of these over more traditional wind turbines is that they can be more densely packed together. Horizontal-axis wind turbines tend to reduce the velocity of wind as it passes through the blades and therefore designers must spread them out from each other, whereas VAWTs do not produce this effect. VAWTs tend to fare better in low-to-medium wind conditions. Similarly, as the main components are closer to the ground, VAWTs are easier to maintain.
How to Use a Stone Crusher
Stone crusher is commonly used on construction sites and in stone quarries to crush large stones into smaller pieces. Crushed rock has a variety of purposes but is often used to make level surfaces, provide drainage under roads and buildings or to create gravel roads. There are three types of crushers; sometimes multiple crushers are used to achieve the desired size. Jaw crushers crush rock by closing two walls against the large stones several times. Roller crushers are often used as secondary crushers; rocks are fed between two rollers that crush the rock. Cone crusher squeeze rock through spinning grinders.
1
Inspect all the parts of the rock crusher before operation and make any repairs or add lubrication where needed. Check for broken teeth, bolts and belts and make sure there are no obstructions in the crushing cavity.
2
Turn on the engine of the rock crusher and listen to make sure that it is operating properly.
3
Start the crushing mechanism of the stone crusher to make sure all components are operating smoothly. Shut down the machine and make repairs where necessary.
4
Set the stone crusher up under a conveyor belt that can carry crushed rock to a pile or dump truck.
5
Adjust the opening of the stone crusher to accommodate the size of the stones you will be crushing. If you leave the opening too wide, your machine will be performing excessive work, leading to unnecessary wear on your stone crusher.
6
Feed large stones into the cavity of your stone crusher with a crane or conveyor belt and allow the machine to do the work.
7
Feed crushed stones into a secondary stone crusher to achieve smaller rocks, if desired. If you use a jaw crusher, you may need to use a roller crusher to produce gravel-sized rocks.
8
Turn off the power to the machine and inspect its parts to make sure there are no stones lodged in the stone cavity.
1
Inspect all the parts of the rock crusher before operation and make any repairs or add lubrication where needed. Check for broken teeth, bolts and belts and make sure there are no obstructions in the crushing cavity.
2
Turn on the engine of the rock crusher and listen to make sure that it is operating properly.
3
Start the crushing mechanism of the stone crusher to make sure all components are operating smoothly. Shut down the machine and make repairs where necessary.
4
Set the stone crusher up under a conveyor belt that can carry crushed rock to a pile or dump truck.
5
Adjust the opening of the stone crusher to accommodate the size of the stones you will be crushing. If you leave the opening too wide, your machine will be performing excessive work, leading to unnecessary wear on your stone crusher.
6
Feed large stones into the cavity of your stone crusher with a crane or conveyor belt and allow the machine to do the work.
7
Feed crushed stones into a secondary stone crusher to achieve smaller rocks, if desired. If you use a jaw crusher, you may need to use a roller crusher to produce gravel-sized rocks.
8
Turn off the power to the machine and inspect its parts to make sure there are no stones lodged in the stone cavity.
Monday, March 5, 2012
How to Make Simple Solar-Powered Machines
Solar machine is one of the earth's cleanest sources of energy. By harnessing the heat and photons associated with the sun's rays, man has been able to use solar power on anything from vending machines to military spy satellites. However, you can test the power of the sun yourself by making a solar-powered machine at home.
1
Ensure the electric lead wires are properly connected to the photovoltaic cell, which will be responsible for collecting photons from the sun's ultraviolet rays or artificial ultraviolet rays. Most cells will produce only 20 percent amount of the energy collected, so make sure your cell will be large enough to give you the necessary power. Cover the cell with a small towel.
2
Place the small motor on a table or platform exposed to the sun. Make sure it is free of any obstructions and anything that could catch on fire due to an electrical arcing, which is when an electrical charge shoots out. It takes only a spark to start a fire. If the spark has nothing flammable to land on, you should be OK.
3
Attach the small Popsicle stick to the motor's rotating part. Center the Popsicle stick so that when it spins there will be an even balance. Prop the spinning end of the motor up onto the clay so that there is enough room for rotation.
4
Connect the lead wires from the panel to the engine's electrical connection points. Make sure the wires can't get tangled into the propeller or stuck in the clay.
5
Uncover the photovoltaic cell and expose it to the sun. It may take a few seconds to a few minutes to transmit the energy, but eventually the motor propeller should spin.
How to Cook With a Stainless Steel Tank
Stainless steel tank is a hard and durable stain-resistant metal consisting of 10.5-percent chromium and more than 50-percent iron. It is a common choice in making cooking tanks because it withstands a lot of heat and vigorous use. It has no effect on flavors and it doesn't react with acidic foods. Moreover, it is easy to clean. Stainless steel tanks also save energy because they require less heat.
1
Choose a spacious working area, either indoors or outdoors. Decide on the food you want to cook and the procedure you will follow in preparation of the food according to your recipe.
2
Arrange the equipment you need in a section of your cooking area to minimize movement and avoid accidents. Keep a heat glove near you as stainless steel becomes very hot.
3
Heat the stainless steel tank. Pour in oil and spread it to the innermost surface using a long, wooden spatula. Add the other seasonings as per your recipe and stir them for a three to five minutes. Cover the tank and allow it to boil. Keep adjusting the heat, if necessary.
4
Add the other ingredients, stir and let them cook four to five minutes while monitoring the heat. Ensure the tank does not develop hot spots as this will burn the food.
5
Stir the food for 10 seconds or turn on the mechanical agitator, if your tank is equipped with such a device. Taste for flavor and adjust the seasoning. Cover the steel tank. Cook the food until done. Turn off the stainless steel tank and remove the food.
Read more information about Stainless Steel Tank, click http://www.hsmachine.com/
How to Use a Key Cutting Machine
At one time, making duplicate keys required hand grinding or filing a key blank. The method was difficult to master, and only a locksmith could do the job accurately. Today's technology makes creating a duplicate key quick and cost-effective. Hardware stores are now equiped with automatic or semiautomatic key-cutting machines, which are able to follow the shape of the teeth along the key while grinding the blanks into precise copies.
1
Insert the original key in the vice with the teeth facing upward.
2
Insert the blank key into the second vice, where the cutting machine blade is located.
3
Close the protective cover and activate the machine. The micrometer will trace the original key. It automatically controls the angles and depth of the high-speed cobalt blade.
4
Once the duplication is complete, turn off the machine and remove both keys. Use the high-speed wire brush to polish off any rough edges or spurs.
5
Place the new key and the original against each other and compare. They should be an identical match. If not, another key may need to be cut.
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