Wednesday, February 29, 2012
How to Concentrate LED Light
Light emitting diodes (LEDs) are semiconductor chips that put out light far more efficiently than incandescent or fluorescent bulbs. Add in the potential that LED light sources can last 10 years or more, and you have the nearly perfect light source. But LEDs are inherently non-directional -- they shine light in all directions. Manufacturers make this a little handier for designers by putting light extraction mechanisms within the chip itself. Still, to concentrate the light in a bright cone of illumination, additional optics are required. A particularly useful design is called a non-imaging concentrator, in particular, a type called a compound parabolic concentrator, or CPC.
1
Select Energy Saving Lamp. This can be a single "superbright" white LED, an array of white LEDs, or several colored LEDs all assembled on a single flat carrier.
2
Obtain the specification sheet for the selected LED Strip Light and determine the area of the light emitting region.
3
Determine the desired angular spread of the beam. A smaller angle will be brighter, but cover less area, while a larger angle means a larger area is lit, but less brightly.
4
Calculate the diameter of the output aperture, using the formula that the diameter of the output aperture is equal to the diameter of the active area of the LED determined in Step 2, divided by the sine of the angle determined in Step 3.
For example, if the LED Light area is contained within a diameter of 12 mm and the desired output angle is 15 degrees, the output aperture is 12 mm / sin(15°) = 46 mm.
5
Select a CPC with the input aperture determined in Step 2 and an output aperture as calculated in Step 4.
For the example, the input aperture is 12 mm and the output aperture is 46 mm. Any CPC with those apertures will concentrate more than 95 percent of the light into the output cone. If the desired CPC is not available off-the-shelf, follow the "string method" in the references to define the needed optic.
Thursday, February 23, 2012
How to Install LED Lighting
LED lighting is a newer way to provide light to various places, such as under a kitchen cabinet. This type of light is typically more energy efficient than a standard incandescent light. Depending on how your cabinets are built the lights are designed to have a low profile so they cannot be seen under the cabinet. Installing LED lights can be done by first deciding where to place the LED light assembly.
Instructions
1
Mark the placement for the LED lights so that so you know where the electrical wiring needs to be located.
2
Find a place for the electrical source for the LED lights. The electrical source is typically located within a kitchen cabinet.
3
Drill small pilot holes in the underside of the cabinet to see where the wiring will need to go.
4
Locate a circuit to use for the LED lighting on your home's junction or circuit box.
5
Turn off the circuit that is going to be used for the LED lighting.
6
Feed the electrical wire from your basement junction or circuit box, through the floor, up to the cabinet.
7
Connect the electrical wire from the lighting source to the LED lighting. Refer to the LED lighting instructions to properly connect the electrical wiring.
8
Connect the ground wires from the electrical source for the LED lights to the switch box.
9
Turn on the circuit from the junction box and test the lighting by turning the light switch to the "on" position.
Instructions
1
Mark the placement for the LED lights so that so you know where the electrical wiring needs to be located.
2
Find a place for the electrical source for the LED lights. The electrical source is typically located within a kitchen cabinet.
3
Drill small pilot holes in the underside of the cabinet to see where the wiring will need to go.
4
Locate a circuit to use for the LED lighting on your home's junction or circuit box.
5
Turn off the circuit that is going to be used for the LED lighting.
6
Feed the electrical wire from your basement junction or circuit box, through the floor, up to the cabinet.
7
Connect the electrical wire from the lighting source to the LED lighting. Refer to the LED lighting instructions to properly connect the electrical wiring.
8
Connect the ground wires from the electrical source for the LED lights to the switch box.
9
Turn on the circuit from the junction box and test the lighting by turning the light switch to the "on" position.
Wednesday, February 22, 2012
How to Make PVC Corral Panels
A corral panel is a simple rectangular panel that can be attached together for many uses. Corral panels are used to quickly repair a fence, make a round pen for horses to exercise in, fence off an area or divide off stalls in a stable. They can be expensive to buy. If you make your own, they cost a lot less, and can be custom made to fit any space.
Instructions
1
Cut all of the 10-foot PVC pipes in half. Measure 5 feet from one end, and draw a mark with a pencil or pen. Using the PVC cutters, cut the PVC pipe in half. Set the pieces aside.
2
Cut two of the 5-foot pieces of pipe into 1-foot pieces using the PVC pipe cutters.
3
Make 2 side posts. Construct the side posts in this order: elbow, 1-foot piece of PVC, PVC tee, 1-foot piece of PVC, PVC tee, 1-foot piece of PVC, PVC tee, 1-foot piece of PVC, 1-foot piece of PVC panel, elbow. It should make a straight post. Glue the pieces together using PVC glue. Wipe the glue on each piece of pipe, and put the pipe together. Hold the pipe tightly together as you count to 45. It tends to try to push apart. Make sure that the ends of the tees and elbows that are poking out are all facing the same direction. You will need to make two of these posts, one for each side of the panel.
After you make the side posts, you will need to make the center post. Construct the center post in this order: tee (with the long two-holed side on the bottom), 1-foot piece of PVC, PVC cross, 1-foot piece of PVC, PVC cross, 1-foot piece of PVC, PVC cross, 1-foot piece of PVC, PVC cross, 1-foot piece of PVC, tee (with the long two-holed side on the top). It should make a straight post. Make sure that the ends of the tees and crosses that are poking out are all facing the same direction. Make only one center post.
4
Attach the side post to the center post with the 5 foot long pieces of PVC pipe on the left side. Glue the 5-foot pieces of pipe into the corresponding tee or elbows on the side post and center post. It is easier to put this part together if you glue all of the pieces into the side post first. Have a second person hold the side post with the glued 5-foot pieces of pipe up. Put the glue in the tee and cross openings on one side, and quickly push the 5-foot pieces of PVC into the openings. Hold pressure against both posts to keep the glue from pushing the pipe out. Count to 45 before releasing the pressure.
Attach the right side of the panel to the center post with the 5 foot pieces of pipe. Glue in each section, and apply pressure to right and left outer posts at the same time. Hold for 45 seconds, and it is ready to use.
Instructions
1
Cut all of the 10-foot PVC pipes in half. Measure 5 feet from one end, and draw a mark with a pencil or pen. Using the PVC cutters, cut the PVC pipe in half. Set the pieces aside.
2
Cut two of the 5-foot pieces of pipe into 1-foot pieces using the PVC pipe cutters.
3
Make 2 side posts. Construct the side posts in this order: elbow, 1-foot piece of PVC, PVC tee, 1-foot piece of PVC, PVC tee, 1-foot piece of PVC, PVC tee, 1-foot piece of PVC, 1-foot piece of PVC panel, elbow. It should make a straight post. Glue the pieces together using PVC glue. Wipe the glue on each piece of pipe, and put the pipe together. Hold the pipe tightly together as you count to 45. It tends to try to push apart. Make sure that the ends of the tees and elbows that are poking out are all facing the same direction. You will need to make two of these posts, one for each side of the panel.
After you make the side posts, you will need to make the center post. Construct the center post in this order: tee (with the long two-holed side on the bottom), 1-foot piece of PVC, PVC cross, 1-foot piece of PVC, PVC cross, 1-foot piece of PVC, PVC cross, 1-foot piece of PVC, PVC cross, 1-foot piece of PVC, tee (with the long two-holed side on the top). It should make a straight post. Make sure that the ends of the tees and crosses that are poking out are all facing the same direction. Make only one center post.
4
Attach the side post to the center post with the 5 foot long pieces of PVC pipe on the left side. Glue the 5-foot pieces of pipe into the corresponding tee or elbows on the side post and center post. It is easier to put this part together if you glue all of the pieces into the side post first. Have a second person hold the side post with the glued 5-foot pieces of pipe up. Put the glue in the tee and cross openings on one side, and quickly push the 5-foot pieces of PVC into the openings. Hold pressure against both posts to keep the glue from pushing the pipe out. Count to 45 before releasing the pressure.
Attach the right side of the panel to the center post with the 5 foot pieces of pipe. Glue in each section, and apply pressure to right and left outer posts at the same time. Hold for 45 seconds, and it is ready to use.
Instructions for Installing PVC Ceiling Panels
PVC panel is low maintenance building materials typically used on the ceilings in a house to add beauty and elegance or to cover uneven surfaces. These waterproof panels are installed on ceilings in bathrooms and kitchens and any other interior room. These panels are tongue and groove and can be installed with moderate effort by any homeowner. With just a few instructions and the proper materials, PVC panels can be installed quickly.
Instructions
1
Measure the length and width of the ceiling to get the total square footage which will determine how many pieces will be necessary for installation. Divide the total square footage of the ceiling by eight, which is the square footage of the panels, to figure out the number of panels that will be used for installation.
2
Line the first piece up to the ceiling beginning in any corner of the room. Run a bead of silicone caulk along the ceiling where the panel will be installed. Push the panel in place and hold it for a minute so it can adhere to the caulk.
3
Insert staples all over the panel to secure it to the ceiling. Space the staples out evenly and make sure the first panel is secure to the ceiling before letting go.
4
Apply silicone caulk to the ceiling where the second panel will go and slide it into the first panel. Lock it into place so it is secure and push it against the ceiling to allow the silicone time to stick to it. Insert staples just like the previous panel. Continue down the ceiling until reaching the end of the first row.
5
Cut the panel to size if necessary with a hack saw. Measure and mark where the cut needs to be made and carefully follow along the lines to cut the panel to size. Install this panel in the same manner. Move on to the second row and continue across the ceiling until all the panels have been properly installed and are secured to the ceiling.
Instructions
1
Measure the length and width of the ceiling to get the total square footage which will determine how many pieces will be necessary for installation. Divide the total square footage of the ceiling by eight, which is the square footage of the panels, to figure out the number of panels that will be used for installation.
2
Line the first piece up to the ceiling beginning in any corner of the room. Run a bead of silicone caulk along the ceiling where the panel will be installed. Push the panel in place and hold it for a minute so it can adhere to the caulk.
3
Insert staples all over the panel to secure it to the ceiling. Space the staples out evenly and make sure the first panel is secure to the ceiling before letting go.
4
Apply silicone caulk to the ceiling where the second panel will go and slide it into the first panel. Lock it into place so it is secure and push it against the ceiling to allow the silicone time to stick to it. Insert staples just like the previous panel. Continue down the ceiling until reaching the end of the first row.
5
Cut the panel to size if necessary with a hack saw. Measure and mark where the cut needs to be made and carefully follow along the lines to cut the panel to size. Install this panel in the same manner. Move on to the second row and continue across the ceiling until all the panels have been properly installed and are secured to the ceiling.
How to Troubleshoot Solar Water Heaters
Solar water heater save homeowners money on their electricity or natural gas bills. Solar powered water heaters heat water with the power of the sun. Although they require less maintenance than traditional gas or electric water heaters, they still require repairs when they stop working. Troubleshooting your solar water heater may allow you to repair the unit yourself, or at least to be more informed on what repairs a service technician will need to make.
Instructions
1
Check the solar collectors for dirt, debris, cracks and shading. The experts at the U.S. Department of Energy say that dirt or debris, or shade from overhanging vegetation, can prevent the solar collectors from collecting enough energy to sufficiently heat the water. Cracks in the glazing of the solar collectors may let moisture in, which can ruin the collectors.
2
Examine the controller and its wiring if the pump is running constantly, or won't run at all. The controller and its wiring can easily be damaged by rust or a power surge, say the experts at the Florida Solar Energy Center. Look for corrosion or burn marks on the wiring in the controller itself.
3
Flush the system and check the pressure gauge if the solar water heater has a drop in water pressure. The experts at the North Carolina Department of Commerce recommended checking the water for dirt or other debris, because this may indicate a blockage in the pipes.
4
Observe the pump during the night to determine if the thermo-siphoning check valve is working properly. According to the experts at the Florida Solar Energy Center, if the is pump constantly cycling on and off during the night, this can indicate that the check valve that allows cool water to move into the storage tank may be stuck open. This can cause insufficient hot water levels in the morning.
5
Look for burst or leaking pipes and valves. Freezing water in an improperly drained solar heating system can rupture pipes and valves.
6
Check for air trapped in the pipes or pump if the system operates noisily. The experts that the North Carolina Department of Commerce say that opening the vent screw on the pump should release any excess air. Air trapped in the plates will need to be flushed by running water back up the supply line.
Tips & Warnings
Insufficient hot water levels are most commonly caused by high water demand that the solar water you heat cannot meet. Installing a backup water heating system or using the solar water heater in the afternoons and evenings can alleviate this problem.
The solar collectors may need to be repositioned if new construction or plant growth has occurred since they were installed.
Do not attempt to replace or repair damaged wiring or solar collectors without electrical experience.
Instructions
1
Check the solar collectors for dirt, debris, cracks and shading. The experts at the U.S. Department of Energy say that dirt or debris, or shade from overhanging vegetation, can prevent the solar collectors from collecting enough energy to sufficiently heat the water. Cracks in the glazing of the solar collectors may let moisture in, which can ruin the collectors.
2
Examine the controller and its wiring if the pump is running constantly, or won't run at all. The controller and its wiring can easily be damaged by rust or a power surge, say the experts at the Florida Solar Energy Center. Look for corrosion or burn marks on the wiring in the controller itself.
3
Flush the system and check the pressure gauge if the solar water heater has a drop in water pressure. The experts at the North Carolina Department of Commerce recommended checking the water for dirt or other debris, because this may indicate a blockage in the pipes.
4
Observe the pump during the night to determine if the thermo-siphoning check valve is working properly. According to the experts at the Florida Solar Energy Center, if the is pump constantly cycling on and off during the night, this can indicate that the check valve that allows cool water to move into the storage tank may be stuck open. This can cause insufficient hot water levels in the morning.
5
Look for burst or leaking pipes and valves. Freezing water in an improperly drained solar heating system can rupture pipes and valves.
6
Check for air trapped in the pipes or pump if the system operates noisily. The experts that the North Carolina Department of Commerce say that opening the vent screw on the pump should release any excess air. Air trapped in the plates will need to be flushed by running water back up the supply line.
Tips & Warnings
Insufficient hot water levels are most commonly caused by high water demand that the solar water you heat cannot meet. Installing a backup water heating system or using the solar water heater in the afternoons and evenings can alleviate this problem.
The solar collectors may need to be repositioned if new construction or plant growth has occurred since they were installed.
Do not attempt to replace or repair damaged wiring or solar collectors without electrical experience.
How Does a Solar Water Heater Work?
Process
Cold water is moved via a pump from a water tank and travels through solar collectors in a solar panel. In the process, it is heated up by the power of the sun hitting the solar collectors. This heat is then carried away from the solar collectors by the water returning to a heated storage tank. Some solar water heaters have a shut-off valve that automatically closes when the sun goes down in order to save heated water. An auxiliary system will kick in when more hot water is needed. Auxiliary systems run on conventional energy, such as gas or electricity. A controller component regulates the pumping action of the water. The controller will close the check valve that sits between the solar panel and the hot water storage tank. It also turns the auxiliary power on when the solar cycle is not available (when the sun goes down).
Size and Heat Retention
Size is important. Solar water heater store hot water in a storage tank. A valve closes over the pipe on the storage tank to prevent the loss of heat from the hot water. The larger the storage tank, the longer you can go without recharging the water with heat from the sun. This is especially important for areas where there is frequent rain and overcast skies.
Automated Solar Water Heaters
Automated solar water heaters work by monitoring the water pump in relation to the availability of solar power from the sun. When the sun goes down, the automated solar water heater will stop the pump. In sequence, the valves over the water storage tank will close to prevent the loss of heated water. By preserving the heat in the water storage tank, hot water can be used for bathing or washing dishes even when there is no sunlight to power the solar water heater.
Auxiliary and Passive Solar Water Heaters
Most solar water heaters are not entirely independent of conventional power. When sunlight is not available as a power source, the solar power water heater will switch to auxiliary power (gas or electricity). A solar power water heater can provide on average about 90 percent of hot water from the sun alone. However, a passive solar water heater only provides about 40 percent of the home's hot water supply. This is due to the auxiliary heating processing in a second storage tank. The tank is preheated, thus more conventional power is necessary to get the water heated up before solar power can kick in.
Cold water is moved via a pump from a water tank and travels through solar collectors in a solar panel. In the process, it is heated up by the power of the sun hitting the solar collectors. This heat is then carried away from the solar collectors by the water returning to a heated storage tank. Some solar water heaters have a shut-off valve that automatically closes when the sun goes down in order to save heated water. An auxiliary system will kick in when more hot water is needed. Auxiliary systems run on conventional energy, such as gas or electricity. A controller component regulates the pumping action of the water. The controller will close the check valve that sits between the solar panel and the hot water storage tank. It also turns the auxiliary power on when the solar cycle is not available (when the sun goes down).
Size and Heat Retention
Size is important. Solar water heater store hot water in a storage tank. A valve closes over the pipe on the storage tank to prevent the loss of heat from the hot water. The larger the storage tank, the longer you can go without recharging the water with heat from the sun. This is especially important for areas where there is frequent rain and overcast skies.
Automated Solar Water Heaters
Automated solar water heaters work by monitoring the water pump in relation to the availability of solar power from the sun. When the sun goes down, the automated solar water heater will stop the pump. In sequence, the valves over the water storage tank will close to prevent the loss of heated water. By preserving the heat in the water storage tank, hot water can be used for bathing or washing dishes even when there is no sunlight to power the solar water heater.
Auxiliary and Passive Solar Water Heaters
Most solar water heaters are not entirely independent of conventional power. When sunlight is not available as a power source, the solar power water heater will switch to auxiliary power (gas or electricity). A solar power water heater can provide on average about 90 percent of hot water from the sun alone. However, a passive solar water heater only provides about 40 percent of the home's hot water supply. This is due to the auxiliary heating processing in a second storage tank. The tank is preheated, thus more conventional power is necessary to get the water heated up before solar power can kick in.
How to Build a Mini Solar Water Heater
Solar water heater use the sun to heat water. Typically these systems are mounted on the roofs of homes and utilize a pump and large storage tank in the basement of the house to hold the hot water. A mini solar water heater can be built using the same principles, though designed to be relatively compact and portable. A small portable solar water heater would be very useful for camping and similar recreation activities where hot water is very useful, but not abundant.
Instructions
Bend the copper tubing in a S shape up the sheet of plywood. The end of the tubing should start at the bottom corner of the board and the tubing should run across the board horizontally before curving up to make another horizontal row. There should be very little space between each row. The end of the tub should end at the opposite corner as the starting end.
2
Secure the tubing to the board at the start and end using the U-fasteners, screws and screw driver.
3
Attach the hinges at the top corners of the panel using the screws. The fulcrum of the hinge should be along the top edge of the panel.
4
Attach one of the two 18 inch 2x4s to each hinge. These will form legs for the panel to stand on and will collapse for easy transport.
5
Screw the 2 foot 2x4 to the bottom back-edge of the panel, creating a platform for the panel to rest on.
6
Paint the entire panel black. High temperature spray paint works well.
Holding tank
1
Connect one piece of flexible tubing to the circulation input and output of the water tank.
2
Place tubing clamps over the connections and secure the clamps in place.
3
Paint the tank and connections black.
Using the system
1
Connect the circulation output tube of the water tank to the input on the solar panel. The input is the copper tube at the bottom corner of the solar panel.
2
Fill the circulation line with water. There must not be any air bubbles for the water to efficiently circulate via convention currents around the system.
3
Connect the input tube of the water tank to the output on the solar panel. The output of the solar panel is the copper tube on the top corner.
4
Hang the tube from a secure support above the panel.
5
Fill the water tank with water.
6
Place the solar panel in a sunny area.
7
Wait for the water to warm up. The sun will warm the water in the copper tubing on the solar panel, then travel up to the water tank, where it will warm the storage water. The colder water will flow back to the solar panel and get reheated.
Instructions
Bend the copper tubing in a S shape up the sheet of plywood. The end of the tubing should start at the bottom corner of the board and the tubing should run across the board horizontally before curving up to make another horizontal row. There should be very little space between each row. The end of the tub should end at the opposite corner as the starting end.
2
Secure the tubing to the board at the start and end using the U-fasteners, screws and screw driver.
3
Attach the hinges at the top corners of the panel using the screws. The fulcrum of the hinge should be along the top edge of the panel.
4
Attach one of the two 18 inch 2x4s to each hinge. These will form legs for the panel to stand on and will collapse for easy transport.
5
Screw the 2 foot 2x4 to the bottom back-edge of the panel, creating a platform for the panel to rest on.
6
Paint the entire panel black. High temperature spray paint works well.
Holding tank
1
Connect one piece of flexible tubing to the circulation input and output of the water tank.
2
Place tubing clamps over the connections and secure the clamps in place.
3
Paint the tank and connections black.
Using the system
1
Connect the circulation output tube of the water tank to the input on the solar panel. The input is the copper tube at the bottom corner of the solar panel.
2
Fill the circulation line with water. There must not be any air bubbles for the water to efficiently circulate via convention currents around the system.
3
Connect the input tube of the water tank to the output on the solar panel. The output of the solar panel is the copper tube on the top corner.
4
Hang the tube from a secure support above the panel.
5
Fill the water tank with water.
6
Place the solar panel in a sunny area.
7
Wait for the water to warm up. The sun will warm the water in the copper tubing on the solar panel, then travel up to the water tank, where it will warm the storage water. The colder water will flow back to the solar panel and get reheated.
How to Drive a Forklift
Driving a forklift takes a bit of practice and is nothing like driving a car. Forklifts are steered by their rear wheels, have unwieldy weight distribution, and often have counter-intuitive controls. Depending on where you operate, you may need a license or specialized training, but here is a brief example of how to drive a forklift.
Complete the pre-operations checklist. Look around the vehicle for any damage or malfunction that might prevent the fork lift from operating as it is intended. Pay special attention to hydraulic mechanisms and tire conditions.
2
Familiarize yourself with all controls and meter readings. This can be done by reading the operator's manual.
3
Note the size and shape of what you are lifting, and make sure the fork you are using is set to the proper width.
4
Observe your working environment, make sure it's clean and clear of obstacles. Do not operate a forklift in an area of heavy foot or vehicular traffic, nor in slippery or otherwise unsafe working conditions.
5
Start the forklift using the key and start button. Move it through basic operations. There will be knobs and levers that move the forks up and down, steer the vehicle and control the speed.
6
Practice driving the forklift in an open area. Try lifting empty pallets or bags of sand to get used to the controls. Once you are comfortable, you can begin your intended chore.
7
Park the forklift with the fork completely on the ground when you are finished.
Tips & Warnings
Keep the load as close to the ground as possible and don't drive any faster than you need to. The forklift is designed to lift heavy objects, and is not a racecar.
Practice with the controls in an open space. All forklifts have rear-wheel steering, but have different instrumentation. Familiarize yourself with the controls of your forklift by asking an experienced operator about the specific model you'll be using.
Operating heavy machinery is not something to be taken lightly. If you've never used a forklift before, make sure you're with someone who is experienced.
If you start to operate this machine with no knowledge beforehand, it's likely you could injure yourself or someone else.
Do not attempt to lift any weights until you are confident and consistent in your abilities to safely and articulately operate the machine.
Complete the pre-operations checklist. Look around the vehicle for any damage or malfunction that might prevent the fork lift from operating as it is intended. Pay special attention to hydraulic mechanisms and tire conditions.
2
Familiarize yourself with all controls and meter readings. This can be done by reading the operator's manual.
3
Note the size and shape of what you are lifting, and make sure the fork you are using is set to the proper width.
4
Observe your working environment, make sure it's clean and clear of obstacles. Do not operate a forklift in an area of heavy foot or vehicular traffic, nor in slippery or otherwise unsafe working conditions.
5
Start the forklift using the key and start button. Move it through basic operations. There will be knobs and levers that move the forks up and down, steer the vehicle and control the speed.
6
Practice driving the forklift in an open area. Try lifting empty pallets or bags of sand to get used to the controls. Once you are comfortable, you can begin your intended chore.
7
Park the forklift with the fork completely on the ground when you are finished.
Tips & Warnings
Keep the load as close to the ground as possible and don't drive any faster than you need to. The forklift is designed to lift heavy objects, and is not a racecar.
Practice with the controls in an open space. All forklifts have rear-wheel steering, but have different instrumentation. Familiarize yourself with the controls of your forklift by asking an experienced operator about the specific model you'll be using.
Operating heavy machinery is not something to be taken lightly. If you've never used a forklift before, make sure you're with someone who is experienced.
If you start to operate this machine with no knowledge beforehand, it's likely you could injure yourself or someone else.
Do not attempt to lift any weights until you are confident and consistent in your abilities to safely and articulately operate the machine.
Tuesday, February 21, 2012
How to Replace a Driveshaft Center Bearing
Most drive shafts are one continuous unit which connects the vehicle engine's transmission to the rear differential. However, drive shafts on some large vehicles and performance automobiles are two piece units with a center bearing (aka carrier bearing) to support the shaft roughly half way from the transmission to the rear axle differential. If this bearing fails, removing it and replacing it with a new one is a straight forward project for a home mechanic requiring nothing more than common garage tools and a bit of effort.
Instructions
1
Use a jack to raise the vehicle high enough to allow you to get under it with room to work with your tools.
2
Place the vehicle on jack stands positioned precisely under the axle or frame rather than having it supported by the jack.
3
Use a work light to enable you to easily see your work under the vehicle.
Index Marks
1
Use a piece of chalk to make a mark starting on the side of the transmission, continuing onto the drive shaft which will help you reposition the shaft exactly as it was when you reinstall it. Drive shafts connect into transmissions with a splined shaft which will only fit in one way, but the index mark will help you find that exact position when reinstalling the shaft.
2.
Use a piece of chalk to mark the universal joint where it attaches to the yoke coming out of the rear axle differential so it can be reinstalled exactly as it was when the drive shaft was removed.
3 Use a piece of chalk to mark the plates which connect the forward portion of the drive shaft and the rear portion of the drive shaft so they can be reinstalled exactly as they were originally installed.
Remove Drive shaft
1
Disconnect the drive shaft center bearing from the vehicle's frame using the appropriate sized socket and wrench. On some vehicles the bearing block bolts thread into nuts which are welded to the frame; on other vehicles, the block is bolted to the frame with a standard, two part bolts and nuts.
2
Remove the bolts which secure the universal joint bearing to the yoke coming out of the rear axle differential.
3
Wrap and secure a strip of duct tape around the caps of the universal joint bearing to prevent the caps from falling off while you are handling the drive shaft.
4
Pull the entire drive shaft to the rear extracting the splined shaft from the rear of the transmission. Once it's free, move the drive shaft to a workbench.
Remove Old Bearing
1
Remove the bolts from the plates which connect the front part of the drive shaft to the rear portion of the drive shaft. Set the rear portion of the drive shaft aside. Secure the forward portion of the drive shaft firmly in a vise.
2
Remove the center nut which holds the front connecting plate onto the shaft on which the center bearing is positioned.
3
Tap the old center bearing off the shaft with a hammer. If you need to direct the blows to the where the collar of the bearing touches the shaft, use a brass-ended punch to prevent nicking or scratching the shaft.
Install New Bearing
1
Apply a thin layer of grease on the bearing shaft to make the new bearing slide on more easily.
2
Push the bearing onto the shaft to get it started, then use a hammer to force it all the way into position. Use a brass-ended punch if you need to strike the bearing hard; direct blows could scratch or nick the bearing collar or the shaft.
3
Reassemble the drive shaft, then reinstall it onto the vehicle by reversing the removal proceedure. Use the index marks to insure it's reattached exactly as it was before it was removed.
Instructions
1
Use a jack to raise the vehicle high enough to allow you to get under it with room to work with your tools.
2
Place the vehicle on jack stands positioned precisely under the axle or frame rather than having it supported by the jack.
3
Use a work light to enable you to easily see your work under the vehicle.
Index Marks
1
Use a piece of chalk to make a mark starting on the side of the transmission, continuing onto the drive shaft which will help you reposition the shaft exactly as it was when you reinstall it. Drive shafts connect into transmissions with a splined shaft which will only fit in one way, but the index mark will help you find that exact position when reinstalling the shaft.
2.
Use a piece of chalk to mark the universal joint where it attaches to the yoke coming out of the rear axle differential so it can be reinstalled exactly as it was when the drive shaft was removed.
3 Use a piece of chalk to mark the plates which connect the forward portion of the drive shaft and the rear portion of the drive shaft so they can be reinstalled exactly as they were originally installed.
Remove Drive shaft
1
Disconnect the drive shaft center bearing from the vehicle's frame using the appropriate sized socket and wrench. On some vehicles the bearing block bolts thread into nuts which are welded to the frame; on other vehicles, the block is bolted to the frame with a standard, two part bolts and nuts.
2
Remove the bolts which secure the universal joint bearing to the yoke coming out of the rear axle differential.
3
Wrap and secure a strip of duct tape around the caps of the universal joint bearing to prevent the caps from falling off while you are handling the drive shaft.
4
Pull the entire drive shaft to the rear extracting the splined shaft from the rear of the transmission. Once it's free, move the drive shaft to a workbench.
Remove Old Bearing
1
Remove the bolts from the plates which connect the front part of the drive shaft to the rear portion of the drive shaft. Set the rear portion of the drive shaft aside. Secure the forward portion of the drive shaft firmly in a vise.
2
Remove the center nut which holds the front connecting plate onto the shaft on which the center bearing is positioned.
3
Tap the old center bearing off the shaft with a hammer. If you need to direct the blows to the where the collar of the bearing touches the shaft, use a brass-ended punch to prevent nicking or scratching the shaft.
Install New Bearing
1
Apply a thin layer of grease on the bearing shaft to make the new bearing slide on more easily.
2
Push the bearing onto the shaft to get it started, then use a hammer to force it all the way into position. Use a brass-ended punch if you need to strike the bearing hard; direct blows could scratch or nick the bearing collar or the shaft.
3
Reassemble the drive shaft, then reinstall it onto the vehicle by reversing the removal proceedure. Use the index marks to insure it's reattached exactly as it was before it was removed.
How to Change Skateboard Bearings
Remove Old Bearing
1
Gather the proper tools. A skate key will work, but you can substitute a basic screwdriver and wrench.
2
Remove the wheels with your skate key. If you have shields installed, you must remove those as well. Keep your spacers, if you are using them, to use with the new bearings.
3
Apply pressure with the skate axle to pop the bearings off. You can also use a screwdriver or a skate key that includes a removal nub, but the easiest way is to slowly pry the bearing out with the axle. Make sure only the tip of the axle is inside the bearing and it is not touching the wheel.
4
Pry the bearing out carefully if you want to save the part. If you are throwing your bearings out, then you can apply more pressure, which may cause damage. Just be careful not to hurt the wheels.
5
Repeat prying each bearing out with the axle until all eight bearings have been removed.
Install New Bearings
1
Set the bearings into the wheel. Some bearings have a colored shield on one side, which can be placed facing outward, but is not required. The fit should be tight, but start by simply placing the bearings in the wheel without applying too much pressure.
2
Press evenly on the outside metal rim of the bearing until it pushes into the wheel. It should end up flush with the wheel. Avoid pushing on the shield or center of the bearing while you change the parts.
3
Add a spacer between the bearings if you are using them. A spacer keeps the bearings at the proper distance.
4
Set all eight bearings into place one at a time until your skateboard wheels are complete. Then attach the wheels to the board.
5
Tighten the nut that holds the wheels on until it stops. You want to push the bearings into the wheel completely, but do not want to force the nut, which may break the bearings.
6
Loosen the nuts just a little so the wheel has room to roll freely. From the tightest point, you should loosen the nuts about one-quarter to one-half of a turn.
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Tips & Warnings
Try cleaning and greasing your bearings before you replace them. Sometimes this helps your skateboard roll more freely again.
Removing the bearing improperly may damage your wheel. Most skate shops will remove your bearings for free, which takes the pressure off of you.
1
Gather the proper tools. A skate key will work, but you can substitute a basic screwdriver and wrench.
2
Remove the wheels with your skate key. If you have shields installed, you must remove those as well. Keep your spacers, if you are using them, to use with the new bearings.
3
Apply pressure with the skate axle to pop the bearings off. You can also use a screwdriver or a skate key that includes a removal nub, but the easiest way is to slowly pry the bearing out with the axle. Make sure only the tip of the axle is inside the bearing and it is not touching the wheel.
4
Pry the bearing out carefully if you want to save the part. If you are throwing your bearings out, then you can apply more pressure, which may cause damage. Just be careful not to hurt the wheels.
5
Repeat prying each bearing out with the axle until all eight bearings have been removed.
Install New Bearings
1
Set the bearings into the wheel. Some bearings have a colored shield on one side, which can be placed facing outward, but is not required. The fit should be tight, but start by simply placing the bearings in the wheel without applying too much pressure.
2
Press evenly on the outside metal rim of the bearing until it pushes into the wheel. It should end up flush with the wheel. Avoid pushing on the shield or center of the bearing while you change the parts.
3
Add a spacer between the bearings if you are using them. A spacer keeps the bearings at the proper distance.
4
Set all eight bearings into place one at a time until your skateboard wheels are complete. Then attach the wheels to the board.
5
Tighten the nut that holds the wheels on until it stops. You want to push the bearings into the wheel completely, but do not want to force the nut, which may break the bearings.
6
Loosen the nuts just a little so the wheel has room to roll freely. From the tightest point, you should loosen the nuts about one-quarter to one-half of a turn.
USA largest selection of tapered roller bearing wholesale prices, same day Shipping
A New Kind of Sharinggoogle.com/+
Share the Right Things With the Right people. Join Google+ Today!
EZ-Last Urethaneswww.goturethane.com
Open cast urethane molded products "In any color, size or shape"
Polyurethane Wheelswww.uremet.com
Uremet - specializing in high performance urethane wheels
Tips & Warnings
Try cleaning and greasing your bearings before you replace them. Sometimes this helps your skateboard roll more freely again.
Removing the bearing improperly may damage your wheel. Most skate shops will remove your bearings for free, which takes the pressure off of you.
How to Replace Wheel Bearings on a Boat Trailer
Packing Wheel Bearings
1
Remove the dust cap. It may need to be pried off. Take out the cotter key. Then remove the nut and washer that hold the bearing cone. Take off the nut and washer to the auto bearing cone and pull the hub out. The outer bearings will fall out; collect them and place them aside. Remove the axle seal and discard it. Remove the inner bearings and place them in a location separate from the outer bearings.
2
Clean each part and inspect them for signs of damage or wear. Replace parts that are worn or have damage from excessive heat. Pack the marine grease into the bearing, forcing in as much grease as you can. The grease keeps air out of the system. It is critical that marine grease be used as it has water-resistant properties.
3
Place the inner bearing back in the wheel hub. Install a new seal and use the gasket sealer. Place the tire and hub back on the spindle, but do not damage the new seal. Insert the outer bearing and attach using the washer and nut. Line the nut with the hole in the axle and install a new cotter pin. Replace the dust cap. Fill the hub with marine grease, using a grease gun.
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1
Remove the dust cap. It may need to be pried off. Take out the cotter key. Then remove the nut and washer that hold the bearing cone. Take off the nut and washer to the auto bearing cone and pull the hub out. The outer bearings will fall out; collect them and place them aside. Remove the axle seal and discard it. Remove the inner bearings and place them in a location separate from the outer bearings.
2
Clean each part and inspect them for signs of damage or wear. Replace parts that are worn or have damage from excessive heat. Pack the marine grease into the bearing, forcing in as much grease as you can. The grease keeps air out of the system. It is critical that marine grease be used as it has water-resistant properties.
3
Place the inner bearing back in the wheel hub. Install a new seal and use the gasket sealer. Place the tire and hub back on the spindle, but do not damage the new seal. Insert the outer bearing and attach using the washer and nut. Line the nut with the hole in the axle and install a new cotter pin. Replace the dust cap. Fill the hub with marine grease, using a grease gun.
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Auto Partswww.autopartswarehouse.com
Buy Discount Auto Parts Online. Save off Dealer Prices!
Trailer Parts Superstorewww.EasternMarine.com
Official Site! Superior Selection of Boat Trailer Parts. Fast Ship.
Used Utility TrailersUsed.Utility.Trailers.Localbuzz.us
Bargain Deal, Huge Discounts Browse These Deals & Save Big Now!
How to Remove Car Wheel Bearings
In these clips we're going to talk about the proper way to repack, grease, and adjust your vehicle's wheel bearing. In this clip we're going to talk about the proper way to remove the vehicle's wheel bearings. Depending on the make and model you may have a hub assembly. On this one we have what they call tapered roller bearings. To get the outward bearing out, no problem at all. Take and place your hand about so and pop the rotor. You can see the bearing has slipped out. Take and remove it just like so. The inboard bearing is a different story. There's a dozen different tricks for removal of the inboard bearing. What I have found that works the best is to reinstall the nut. I know it doesn't make sense, but right now I'll show you. To reinstall the nut you have to put on a couple threads. Your going to slide the rotor off its seat and your going to use a sliding motion. What I've done is reinstalled the nut back onto the spindle. What I'm going to do is use the sliding motion with the rotor. I'm going to use both hands and pop it this way. What that'll do it strike the outboard edge of the inboard bearing and actually pop it out and remove the grease seal. Slide it off it's seat and give it a whack. The bearing seats inside here, this is called the inner race and the seal hammers down right on top of it. That's what keeps it in. Take and remove that guy right there. Set it on top of our other bearing. Spin our nut off. That?s the proper way to remove our vehicle's wheel bearings.
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